Puppies, at their very core, are animals. We have developed a lasting and successful relationship and bond with dogs because of their ability to adapt to the human world. Dogs have a very advanced capacity to make friends. Sometimes better than humans do! That being said, we have to be conscious and careful about how we expose them to the human, and the human world, within the first 12 weeks of life and beyond. The goal is for them to become fully functioning dogs in our modern world, capable of coping positively with traumatic and difficult events that will happen at some point in their lives. If this statement induces a feeling of responsibility and pressure, that is good. It is our responsibility to help the animal that is entrusted to our care, for the duration of its life, to learn to enjoy the modern world.
Luckily for your pup, they will be living in Alaska. If you take them outdoors, they can have access to life as it was designed by nature to be. They will be able to engage with the natural environment and dig and chew and run outdoors to their delight. They will have to learn to understand that there are many players in their home and play environment, and that all players will have to go through an adjustment period that can take up to two years to fully work out.
If you want to have a Perfect Pup, here’s my rundown of how I got mine. And I am learning more and more as I go.
These concepts below will interweave. Here are some basic categories.
As animals, gaining a puppy’s trust is critical to a long lasting friendship and functional relationship. Learning puppy body language is extremely important because they will tell you when they are uncomfortable, when they are overwhelmed, when they need reassurance, and when they need space. To engage in most new physical contact in a human way is counter-intuitive to a puppy.
Gentling your puppy will help her feel that touch from you and those in your world is positive. However, there will be people that she will not want to touch her. Do not force her. She will decide who she wants to be in contact with, much like you and I will decide when and who we want to be in physical contact with. It will be obvious when she can and can’t handle touch. If she won’t take a treat while being touched, it is too much and she needs to be released and have some space or some play time. Dogs will approach when they want to engage. If they approach you gently, respond gently. That is what they are seeking at the moment. If they come on real strong, they need more physical and mental engagement. Try not to scold your puppy for mouthing you or jumping. This is the only way they know how to connect. They are animals and would do this with another dog. It means they trust you and want to engage... They will stop mouthing when they learn that you connect with them in other ways. Grab a toy and play tug or chase and they will quickly learn to bring you a toy when they greet you because it is so fun to engage with you. Keep in mind that if they are being ignored or neglected, they will use "attention seeking behaviors" because negative engagement is better than no engagement at all.
Play with your puppy. If every time you engaged with someone, they put a leash on you and tugged at your neck and body, you wouldn’t be interested in engaging with them. Spend a lot of time being silly; Throwing a ball, shaking a toy, tugging with a stick or a towel, running around in a game of keep-away and chase. Wag your tail! Give the puppy a reason to love you. Feed it lots of high value treats so it knows that you are the source of all good things.
Sleep close to your dog. Be close to your dog. That’s what they do in the wild. They are family oriented. And, isn't that why you got a dog? Not to isolate them...
Spend as much time together as you can and they will learn to be loyal and appreciate your presence. They will have less separation anxiety... a baby that never gets left at daycare never has a chance to cry when left behind. It will make your life easier and their life will be happier. If you do need to leave them, make it very positive... leave them with a friend who is nice or who has nice gentle dogs. Get them to chew on a raw meaty bone in the kennel in the car while you run into the store. Give them something to do, or they will find something to do.
Don’t overdo it by letting your puppy physically exhaust itself. Take breaks frequently and allow the brain to calm down. This will teach the puppy to be able to calm itself down throughout the day from moment to moment rather than craving constant stimulation and high intensity. Reward the puppy whenever it self regulates and you find it is relaxed and content. If the puppy doesn’t seem to be self regulating, give it a positive time out. Stop frequently during a walk and throw high value treats on the ground for it to sniff out. Give it a raw meaty bone to chew on in a contained area without the stimulus that it is getting amped up about. I had a breeder tell me once that the reason his dogs are calm is because he never lets them get wound up. There is real value in understanding this.
Also, these puppies grow FAST for the first 6-8 months. Don't let them get chubby. You want to be able to feel all of their ribs, and their skin should move smoothly over the ribs and be fairly thin as it glides over them. Jane Killion and Peter Dobias have good advise about exercising puppies and dogs. The main point is to let the puppy direct what he does and let him take it at a puppy pace that simulates what he would find in a natural environment. Hip dysplasia has many causes, but one contributing factor could be slippery floors. Use rugs in your home! Especially while your puppy is growing and developing. It might be cute watching him slide out on slippery flooring, but it might be causing permanent damage to his joints. Just saying. Don't let them jump off of decks, stairs, beds, couches. Don't let them jump out of cars. Anticipate that you will need to train them, positively, to let you help them with maneuvering these situations while they are still growing.
Never let your puppy play with wild and crazy dogs. You will learn why if you do. Puppies learn to behave by watching and by engaging. Learn to understand dog body language and when your puppy might be getting too amped up. It might be overwhelmed and defending itself, or it might be the instigator... Choose mellow and friendly dogs to let your puppy interact with and let them teach the puppy how to be mellow and how to play fair. If you don’t feel good about a situation, get out of there! If you are on a walk and someone with a wild dog on leash wants to say “hi,” tell them you are in training and keep moving. Do not engage with crazy. Crazy and out of control often turns into dog fight... and no-one wants to deal with that.
That being said, it is extremely important to spend time with lots of different dogs. A puppy who never gets a chance to be a dog with other dogs can develop fear and insecurity. Fear aggression is a very real thing and probably the primary reason for dog bites. Avoid this by introducing your puppy, even if it is simply watching a calm dog walk by across the street. They need good dog behaviors mirrored to them. Set up puppy play dates for 15-20 minute sessions and watch how your puppy thrives.
Learn skills to help your puppy positively cope. Always carry high-value treats with you, and learn to mark behavior and reward in a timely fashion. You have seconds to get the treat to the puppies mouth after you mark a behavior. You can shape your puppy to feel positively about many situations that most dogs become fearful of for life.
Dog training isn’t so much “training” as it is “habituating.” You are teaching your dog what to do in each situation by exposure. This means A LOT of one-on-one time in many, many scenarios, helping your dog learn a pattern of behavior. Even humans aren’t good at impulse control long into adulthood, so don’t expect it from your dog. You have to habituate your puppy to be the dog that inherently controls it’s impulses because you have rewarded it for doing so 100 times in 100 scenarios. Or even 1000 times in 1000 training sessions. Put in the time.
A harness and a long line are a must. (A retractable leash is great for when they won’t pull your arm off. Never attach any line to the neck. Dogs are subject to paralysis and neck injury as well! Harnesses that are fully adjustable and that have an extra strap or length of fabric between the shoulder blades give your puppy room to move its body naturally.
Chew toys: I like the non-toxic stuff. This is really important to avoid cancer over the long term and to give your dog a longer life. I also give my dogs my recyclables like gallon jugs, plastic water bottles, cardboard boxes... They LOVE tearing these things apart. These dogs have been chewing on these things since they were tiny and shouldn’t have an issue with swallowing things they shouldn’t. If they do, they will usually learn quickly because they promptly throw it up.
I do NOT recommend rawhides because they have been soaked in bleach and other chemicals. Penis chew sticks (bully sticks) are also soaked in chemicals. I do NOT recommend hooves because they crack and splinter and break teeth.
Give them RAW chicken necks, wings, legs, spines. The whole carcass is so good for their teething and for their jaw. Chewing in therapeutic for dogs. RAW bones in general are really important for dogs. A general rule is to give them the raw-meaty bones that have the most gristle and not so much the femur and marrow bones. Marrow is really rich and causes diarrhea in most dogs. Knuckle bones with lots of collagen are great for the dog’s joints.
Soft toys: something to tug on and chew up. They might pull the guts out but they love to play with stuffed toys. I get the expensive and durable toys because they last SO much longer and it is less of a waste to go to the dump.
I do not recommend a bed for in the house until your puppy is fully potty trained. All my puppies have peed on the nice new beds I have bought them. Using old quilts and blankets that you can launder will be best. Plus, Newfypoos run HOT. They have thick coats and they will prefer your tile floor near a draft. If you can find a dog bed that is a cot, it will be nice for the joints. They will let you know when they need something soft to lay on because they will be next to you on the couch.
DOG FOOD: If you can’t feed raw or cooked, try The Honest Kitchen dehydrated dog food, mostly because it is human-grade. Try to avoid kibble, or any other highly processed food. It really isn’t what God designed dogs to eat. Can you imagine if we ate kibble as humans? We would have cancer and ear infections as often as dogs do... and our life spans would be shorter too. Just saying. Food should be worth eating and should be fresh.
Food dishes aren’t necessary: when feeding a dog, try to use the food as training treats. If the food isn’t high value enough, the dog won’t be motivated to do anything for it.
Don’t get intimidated, and don’t give up. We are all a work in progress, but the more time you put in early on, the sooner you will reap the rewards of a Perfect Pup!